Friday, January 10, 2014

Know Your Fish









Know Your Fish !!!  








I must start this blog with thanking all of you who read my previous blogs and encouraged me with your feedback and comments. Thank your readers. Though i may not have replied to your queries but i am trying to spend more time on here to make sure i reply at the earliest.
So this blog is going to help you to understand your fish more better in terms of the biological needs as well as their behavior and lifestyle. One thing that i found common among all my customers, is they wanted to know their pets in real and give them what they want. This encourages me to write more and more to provide information about them. I am not too sure whether I will be able to write about all the fishes in your aquarium but I am going to try doing that to my best. This may not be a one time job and this blog will be keep updating as and when i come across new varieties..
Lets begin here then....

1. Swordtail Fish

Swordtails are beautiful, easy to maintain and commonly available. I would recommend  these for the beginners in aquarium keeping. They resemble the Mollies yet they are quite different from them. The most striking feature of this fish is the magnificent Sword like tail (extension formed by the lower rays of caudal fin) in the males. Now here comes the surprise,,Don't think that this Sword is used by the fish as a weapon, its purely for mating purpose.



Species Detail
Common Name : Swordtail Fish.
Scientific Name : Xiphophorus helleri, helleri.
Family Name : Poeciliidae.
Origin : Central America.
Distribution : All over the world now
Length of the Fish : Male upto 4.5 inches length & female upto 3.5 inches.
Meaning of Name : xiphophorus - Sword Carrier Helleri - After the collector Carl Heller.




Sexual Dimorphism
The male has a Gonopodium in his caudal fin is extended into a sword. Female are deeper bodies with fan shaped anal fin.

Sex ratio : 1 male:5 female.
Breeding method : Livebearer.
Water : Medium Hard 20-25C
Temperature : 79-89C
PH : 7.0 - 7.5
Tank : Community Tank
Swimming levels : All Levels.
Food Type : Live worms, artificial and plant food and dried food.




Variants
Red Swordtail, Green Swordtail, Albino Swordtail, Wagtail Swordtail, Tuxedo Swordtail, Simpson Hi-fin Swordtail, Red Wagtail Swordtail, Green wagtail, Lyre tail, Sunset Swordtail...

2. Mollies


One of the most elegant looking fishes with the bright white colour. Though there are different colours, white is the most commonly found colour. Any aquarium looks bright because of these guys. The common name molly comes from the genus mollienesia, which no longer used. The various species are now included in the genus poecilia, it is largest of mollies and dorsal fin which is unrivalled by any other fish of the same size.




Species Details
Common Name : White Sail-fin Molly
Scientific Name : Poecilia velifera or Mollienisia vinifera
Family Name : Poeciliidae
Meaning of the Name : Mollienisia - Named from mollen velifera, sail bearer.
Length of Fish : Male upto 10-15cm & Female upto 10-18cm 
Origin : Central America
Distribution : Distributed all over the world now




Sexual Dimorphism
The male is more colourful and has a gonopodium and dorsal fin that is generally high in the male, the dorsal fin has 14 rays, the pale spots at the base of dorsal fin are round. The Pale spots are shining. The females are not as brightly coloured but they have varying number of dots.

Sex Ratio : 1 male:5 female
Breeding Method : Livebearer
Water : Medium hard. 25-28C
Temperature : 79-92C
Food Type : Live worms, dried food and plant food.
Tank Type : Community Tank
Swimming levels : All levels
pH : 7.9 - 8.2




Variants
White Sailfin Molly, Yellow Sailfin Molly, Marbled Sailfin Molly, Lyre tail sailfin Molly.

3. Black Molly


I believe most of us must have started our first aquarium with black mollies. They are cost effective and good survivors. Black Mollie easy to rear and breed, the common variety is olive to green. Blacks make advantages contrasts with brighter head aquarium fishes.




Species Details
Common Name : Black Molly
Scientific Name : Mollienesia sphenops
Family Name : Poeciliidae
Meaning of the Name : Mollienisia face m. mollen Sphenops: wedge face
Origin : central America
Distribution : Distributed all over the world
Length of the Fish : Male upto 3 inches and Female upto 3.5 inches.




Sexual Dimorphism
Male have gonopodium and may have large dorsal fin and female is an intense black colour. Female is larger than male, in female the dorsal in small. 
Sex Ratio : 1 male : 5 female
Breeding method : live bearer
Water : medium hard 22-24C
pH : 7.0 - 7.5
Temperature : 75 - 84 F
Food Type : Live worms, dried food
Tank Type : Community Tank
Swimming Level : All Levels



Variants:
Black Molly, Black moon tail molly, dotted molly, Black and white dotted molly, black and orange dotted molly.


Red Platy Fish


Platy is almost looks like molly. You really need to take a special look to  differentiate  between all of them. It is previously known as Platy poccolus maculatus and commonly called platys. This species forms one of the most colourful and pleasant livebearers known to Aquarist. In the upper parts of the fish are dark olive and the underparts are white. In comparison with red swordtail, the fish is shorter in body, thick set slightly flattened uto 5 cms (2 inch) long. Platy is peaceful and hardy in a community tank.




Species Detail
Common Name : Platy
Scientific Name : Xiphophorus maculatus or Platy poecilus maculatus
Family Name : Poeciliidae
Meaning of Name : Xiphophorus - Sword Carrier, Maculatus - Spotted all moon fish
Origin : Mexico
Distribution : Distributed all over world now.
Length of Fish :  Male upto 2 inch length and female upto 2.5 inch length.




Sexual Dimorphism
The male is slimmer, smaller and has a gonopodium. Females have fan shaped anal fin and duller.
Sex Ratio : 1 male : 3 female
Breeding Method : Livebearer
Water : Medium hard 20 - 25C
pH : 7.0 - 7.5
Temperature : 68 - 77 F
Food Type : Live worms, dried food and plant food.
Tank Type : Community Tank
Swimming Level : All levels




Variants
Red Platy, Blue Platy, Black Platy, Golden Platy, Wagtail Platy, Hi fin Platy, Spotted Platy, Sunset Platy, Sunrise Platy, Coral Platy, Simpson Platy, Albinotic Platy, Tuxedo Platy, Gold Tuxedo Platy, etc.

Guppies

You would have never started Aquarium Keeping hobby without Guppies in your collection. Every starter choose this varieties because it have stand in any kind of foul water. It can take any kind of food. It is the Playboy of the aquarium. These are very common and inexpensive. Infact, Guppies are known throughout the world by everyone irrespective of whether an aquarium keeper or not.




Species Details

Common Name : Guppy
Scientific Name : Lebistes Reticulatus
Family Name : Poeciliidae
Meaning Of Name : Lebistes, Probably from Lebias (Cyprinondon and istia sail) Reticulatus - net marked or mottled
Origin : Trinidad
Distribution : All over the world
Length of the fish : male upto 1.25 inch length & Female upto 1.75 inch length.




Sexual Dimorphism
Males though smaller in size but very much bright coloured and constantly chasing females. Females are bigger than males in size but mostly dull colouration and their colour is seen only in anal tail.

Sex Ratio : 1 male:3 female
Breeding Method : Livebearer
Water Conditions : Hard 2 - 28C
Temperature : 72 - 78 C
pH : 6.9 - 7.4
Tank Type : Community
Food Type : Live worms, dried food and plant food
Swimming Level : All level




Variants
Veiltail Guppy, Black tailed Guppy, Cobra Guppy



Alright,, now we got to understand something technically about the reproduction types of the fishes to help you understand the difference between them..We are gonna talk about the crazy methods of reproduction of the fishes in the next few paragraphs ...

Egg Laying fishes (Oviparous Fishes)




The majority of the aquarium fishes are egg-laying species, the egg being laid by the female and fertilized by male during spawning. 
The egg laying fishes spawn in variety of ways. Egg-Scattering, Egg-burying, Egg-depositing, nest building or egg-anchors and mouth brooding. Lets see each one of them as what it is all about..

Egg Scattering
The eggs are released or dropped disorderly and adhere to plants or other objects or fall to the bottom, egg-scattering fishes are not protective towards their eggs and will eat them if given a chance. To protect from the parents, separate the eggs and adult fishes as soon as possible after the eggs are released and fertilized. For protection of eggs we need heavy planting or pebbles are laid at the bottom of the aquarium. Some of the best examples are Barbs, Characins, Minnows and Cat fishes.




Egg Buriers
These species deposit eggs in the deep layer of peat of the aquarium floor. After Spawning, the Peat (completed with the fertilization of eggs) can be removed and stored almost dry for few months. The hatching process is activated by immersing the peat in the aquarium water again for incubation. Examples are cynolebias and pterolebias species.

Egg Depositors
The egg depositors are very protective towards their eggs and young  fry for breeding. Aquarium should be furnished with suitable rocks or caves or flowerpot to provide a choice of spawning sites for these fishes. Perfect examples are Rasboras.

Bubble - Nest builders
Some species create nests. The air bubbles held together with a saliva glue, some with additional vegetable matter and plant debris. The eggs are laid in these funnel like nests which float to the surface and are fertilized there. Nest builders lay their eggs in nests which they build very much as birds do. The male builds a mucous coating to give durability. I the nest is built of plant matter, mucous is used as cement. These nests are usually funnel shaped and just long enough to cover half the body of the fish so that their head and tail protrude. The female takes the hint, or is soon pushed into the nest and fills it with the male beside her. After much quivering, several hundred eggs are laid, the male then assumes guard duty. Some of the examples are Gouramis, Sticklebacks, Cat fishes and anabantidae.

Egg-Anchors
The egg anchors lay the egg on a firm object such as a rock or a plant leaf or stem and are subsequently attended by one or both parents. Best Examples are cichlid family, angel fish, Discus, Oscar, etc.




Mouth Brooders
The Incubation takes place with-in the mouth and buccal cavity of the female fish. Mouth brooders pick up their eggs (either right after even during spawning) and their larvae in their mouth. The parents eats nothing during the hatching period in fear of swallowing the young. This Group is called Ovophile (egg loving) mouth brooders.
Other mouth brooders deposit their eggs on a substrate where they look after them until the larvae hatch. Then they pick the larvae up and keep them in their mouth until they are able to swim free. This group is called Laruophile (Lauvo - loving) mouth brooders. 
In many species, parental care stops when the young are first release from the mouth but in some cases it continues, till the young being able to swim back into the protective parental mouth when danger appears.
Some of the examples are Tilapia, American Sunfishes, Cichlids such as Geophagus, Auratus.

The Cichlid Family.




There is a specific reason to mention this as a family because there are many varieties on this which we commonly keep in our home aquarium. Let`s look at the zoological details to begin with.

Family : Cichlidae
Sub order : Percoidei
Order : Perciformes
Super Order : Acanthopterygii

This is a large family of spiny rayed fishes or Oviparous fishes that inhabit the sluggish waters. The Family is intelligent mating, breeding, caring for their young in a more advanced manner. Both parents (or at least one) have a strong parental instinct that is they care for the eggs.
Their body structure varies greatly in this species because the fish had to adopt to varied environment during the course of evolution. The hard-ray and soft-rayed parts of the dorsal fin are used together. The anal and dorsal fins are often greatly elongated in the males. The lateral line usually stops in the middle of the  body. Most species of cichlids are predatory but some species will eat vegetable food in addition.

Angel Fish




The Elongated dorsal and anal fins of the graceful fish have earned its popular name Angel Fish. Because of its exotic appearance, every aquarist like to have atleast one in his collection. Their silvery body reflecting tints of blue, has many speckles not unlike freckles. Evenly spaced black vertical bars stripes the body from the eye to the caudal peduncle. One of the body stripes continues into the fins. 

Species Details
Common Name : Angel Fish
Scientific Name : Pterophyllum Scalare
Meaning Of Name : Pterophyllum - winged leaf
                               Scalare - like a fleet of stairs, referring to the dorsal fin.
Family Name : Cichlidae
Origin : South America
Distribution : All over the world
Size of the fish : Male upto 5 inch & female upto 5 inch length.




Sexual Dimorphism
The ventral fins of the male are deeper to the margin, the upper snout is reddish, the dorsal fins aged with vivid. Older males have larger head with small pad of fat. Females have fatter breeding tube.

Sex Ratio : 1 male : 1 female
Breeding Method : Egg Depositor
pH : 6.9 - 7.4
Water Conditions : Very soft, acid 26 - 28 C
Temperature : 68 - 75 C
Food Type : Live worms & dried food.
Tank Type : Community Tank
Swimming Level : All Levels




Variants
Black Angel, Ghost Angel, Veiltail Angel, Diamond Angel, Silver Angel, Etc.


Oscar Fish or Peacock Cichlid




This is one of the largest of all aquarium fishes to be kept by home aquarium keepers. It measures up to almost one foot in length. Basic colour of their body and fins are of chocolate brown with irregular lighter mottled markings on the sides. There is a black spot on the tail base which is winged with gold. Fins are dark at the outside and polar at the base. Their eyes are relatively small. Oscars are great diggers so plants are not advised.

Species Details

Common Name : Oscar or Peacock Cichlid
Scientific Name : Astronotus Ocellatus
Meaning of Name : Astronotus - Marked with stars, Ocellatus - with eye spot on tail
Family Name : Cichlids
Origin : South America
Distribution : All over the world
Size of the Fish : Male upto 14 inch & Female upto 14 inch




Sexual Dimorphism

The male has some bright red markings on the gill covers and near the belly region on the sides. Female is drably coloured. Colours vary greatly in intensity, depending on the of the fish. 

Sex ratio : 1 male : 1 female
Breeding Method : Egg Anchors
Water condition : Medium soft or hard 22 to 26 C
Temperature : 72 to 79 C
Food : Live worms, dried food, insects and chopped meat
Tank Type : Monospecies tank
Swimming level : All level.




Variants

Red Oscar, Albino red Oscar, Tiger Oscar, Coppor Oscar, Lemon Oscar




Fire Mouth Cichlid




Fire mouth cichlid is an outstandingly beautiful fish when in breeding colour. The blue green body is patterned irregularly with pale purple and it is marked with a broken blotchy line running from just behind the gill plate to the tail. The most outstanding feature is the fire red or deep orange belly. This colour runs along the belly to right into its mouth. Another outstanding feature is the bright green edged spot found on the base of the gill plate. Various shades of red are found in the fins.

This is a peaceful cichlid except toward smaller members of its own species. It requires a tank with a substrate of clean sand, rocks and a few robust plants. These plants will not be attacked except possibly during breeding, spawning takes place on the bottom and both the sexes protect their eggs and subsequently fry. Fire mouth cichlids are also found in subterranean water.




Species Details

Common Name : Fire Mouth Cichlid
Scientific Name : Cichlasoma Meeki
Meaning of Name : Cichlasoma - Thrus like body, Meeki - after Seth Meek.
Origin : Central America
Distribution : All over the World
Length of the Fish : Male upto 6 inches & Female upto 6 inches




Sexual Dimorphism

Males have reder throat, more pointed anal fin and has a similar pointed tip. In females, the fin lips are noticeably shorter.

Sex Ratio : 1 male : 1 female
Breeding Method : Egg Depositor
pH : 7.5 - 8.6
Water Condition : Soft, medium hard, 20 to 25C
Temperature : 68 - 77 C
Food Type : Live worms, dried food and plant
Tank Type : Community tank for smaller sized fishes
Swimming level : Mid water and lower levels

Auratus Cichlid




This is a wild and an attractive cichlid, lives in the rocky areas of lake Malawi because of which it is also called as Malawi Golden Cichlid. It is golden yellow in colour with two black stripes bordered blue from head to caudal peduncle. Their fins are in yellow and the upper lobe of the caudal with black spots. It is rather aggressive, should be kept in a tank with gravel substrate, a few tough plants and rocks.

Species Details

Common Name : Auratus or Golden Malawi Cichlid
Scientific Name : Pseudotropheus auratus
Family Name : Cichlidae
Origin : Malawi
Distribution : All over the world
Size : Male upto 4.3 inch & female upto 3.5 inch



Sexual Dimorphism

Its quite easy to distinguish the males and females. Dichromatism, the male is velvety black white longitudinal bands. Female is yellow with dark bands.

Sex ratio : 1 male : 3-4 females
Breeding method : Mouth Breeders
Water Conditions : Soft medium hard (22 to 25C)
Temperature : 72 - 77 C
Food Type : Live worms, dried food and plant food
Tank type : Mono Species Tank
Swimming Level : all levels



Variants

Blue morph, malawi blue cichlid, auratus, blue zebra


... to be continued...









Is Your Fish Sick???

Is Your Fish Sick???

Well, this is blog is to help you find easy remedies to the most commonly found problems of your fishes. Mind it that this isn't a final solution and there may be instances you may not find the symptoms exactly matching to the ones mentioned in this article. I would always recommend a Medic to treat the fish. However in the due course of time or some of the common infections can be handled using this.... 


Diseases due to Nutritional disorders. 



Constipation


Constipation in fish is not a disease but rather the result of being out of condition perhaps due to wrong feeding, but it can also be the herald of more serious condition.

Symptom: The fish becomes thin, sometimes refuses to eat. Faeces of the fish are long and stringy and it remains attached to the fish`s vent for sometime before breaking off. Fish becomes sluggish.

Treatment: Keep the fish on fast for sometime or transfer the fish to the hospital tank and add common sea salt to the water ( add 4 teaspoon of common sea salt to 4 litres of water). Keep the fish in hospital tank for 10 to 30 minutes. This effectiveness of treatment can be judged by fish passing heavy excreta (diarrhoea). Before returning the fish to the community tank, change the fresh water in the hospital tank and feed the fish with live food for few days. Feed the fish daily, only one time in the morning, feed the fish only small amount of food as the fish consumption.


Indigestion


This is not really a disease but simply a disorder usually caused by wrongfully feeding that is too much of dried food. It can also be caused by constipation.

Symptom: Indigestion can be recognized by a swollen belly, air bubbles in the faces and general sluggishness. It is not serious in itself but most cause the fish some discomfort, so it should be speedily treated for that reason alone, but if left untreated, it could lead to a more serious condition.
Treatment:  Keep the fish for some time and transfer the fish to a hospital tank containing 5 litres of water and add 5 teaspoon of common sea salt and left the fish in the hospital tank for 20 to 30 minutes. This effectiveness cause the fish to heavy excreta or diarrhoea, then change the water in hospital tank and feed the fish with live worms for few days then transfer to the community tank.
Feed the fish only one time daily as signs of the fish food intake.



Disease due to negative effects of Abiotic factor





Branchiitis :  (Inflammation of Gills)
This is not strictly a disease but a negative effect of oxygen depletion in culture system.Symptom: The gills become inflamed and swollen, sometimes accompanied by white patches on the body and a general listlessness. Treatment: Salt bath methodAdd small amount i.e a teaspoon of common sea salt in the community tank the salt ratio that is 100gms to 5 litres of fresh water. Transfer fish to this concentration for one day in the community tank. Live bears containing common sea salt, it reduces the spreading of disease. At the time of treatment, remove the live plants from the tank then next day change the water in the community tank.

Gas bubble diseaseIt cannot be considered a disease as it is only a side effect of oxygen super saturation due to either continuous aeration or strong plant growth or fairly intense isolation.Symptom:  Accumulation of fine gas bubbles within the fish body under the skin and a tendency for large fish to make tiny creaking noises when netted.Treatment: Transfer the fish to normal water or rapidly remove super saturation by disturbing the water with a power filter. (The amount of gas content is in excess of the normal, it is known as super saturated).


Exopthalmia (Pop-eye)
It is caused by the haemorrhage in the capillaries of the eye sockets, capillaries are ruptured by the accumulation of gas in the sockets either one or both eyes.
Symptom: This is really an easy disorder to identify; the eye becomes enlarged and stands out in the socket like the half spheres of rabbit’s eye.
Treatment: Transfer the fish to hospital tank and add 3 teaspoon common sea salt for 10 litres of water. Keep the fish in the salt bath for 36 hours with aeration then change the fresh water till it comes to normal form and then transfer the fish to the community tank.

Alternative Treatment: Immerse the fish in a bath made up with one drop ammonia to a 5 litres of water. The temperature of the bath should be set at 80 degree F (26 degree C) and the fish left in the bath for 3 hours. After this period, gradually reduce the concentration by adding fresh water until it reaches the normal. After well being, the fish can be returned to the community tank.



Diseases due to co-existing organisms.



Fungus :

Fungus is more common in cold water fishes but tropical attacks are caused by some micro organisms. The water mould Soprolegnia. In all cases the fish is covered with cotton – wool like growth.




 Mouth fungus 

    This is a most unpleasant disease luckily it is rather rare in well maintained aquarium, but once it develops, it is highly infectious and if not checked, it will soon reach epidemic portion.
Causative agent: Chandrococcus columnaris, Cytophaga columnaris.
Symptom: First white cotton like fluff appears on the lips, which progress into the mouth, eventually it starts to rode the jaws away. A major cause of this disease is damage or bruising to the lips of the fish unless the affected fish is considerable value. It should be killed before this fatal disease spreads otherwise it attacks the other occupants of the tank. This disease is formed during transportation by clumsy handling. We can give treatment but we cannot expect 100% result.
Treatment: This is a difficult disease to cure, by mass treatment. It is much safer to treat fish individually by careful netting and swabbing the mouth with hydrogen peroxide straight from the bottle then keep the treated fish in hospital tank till disappearance of disease.
    Ichthyosporidium

This disease is caused a fungus which infects marine, cold water tropical fish. It forms roughly spherical cysts microscopically small which attack the liver, kidneys, spleen, heart and the other organs and even the muscles and skin. The daughter cysts develop inside the mother cyst which when they mature, bursts to release the parasites.
Causative Agent: Ichthyphonus Fungus Spp
Symptom: Internal Symptoms are difficult for the average aquarist to asses, and it is possible for a fish suffering from this disease to die without exhibiting any external changes of appearance.
Generally fish becomes very emaciated, swellings may occur which burst and form ulcers, pop-eye may develop and if the brain and the swim bladder is affected, the fish may have difficulty in swimming.
Treatment: There is no effective treatment for this disease, therefore it is better to remove the sick fish and destroy it to prevent from other fishes becoming infected.


Saprolegnia Fungus

The cause of this disease is a fungus nearly as often as their cold water cousins. This is because the fungus that settles on dead organic matter such as uneaten food, forming fine white filaments. It usually attacks only the fishes that are already ion a weakened condition. Bruises gill, wrongful feeding, attacks from other fish, weakness from another malady and dirty aquarium are all possible causes of this fungus. The fungus can develop independently in fish but it is some rare in tropical species.
This is a most unpleasant disease luckily it is rather rare in well maintained aquarium, but once it develops, it is highly infectious and if not checked, it will soon reach epidemic portion.

Causative Agent: Saprolegnia Spp.
SymptomsThe fungus becomes evident as white shiny, cotton – wool like film covering the infected area. When the fish is removed from the water, the film collapses.
Treatment: The fish should be placed in the hospital tank without any plants and salt added in the proportion of two level teaspoons to every 5 litres of water, sea salt is preferable to common salt. Even after 24 hours, if there is no evidence of improvement add two more teaspoon of salt.
If by the third day no change is noticed, add another teaspoon salt. When the fish is cured, it should be re-acclimatized to fresh water before being returned to the community tank. This is accomplished by adding freshwater over a period of few days to lower the salt content.
Alternatively, make the fish bath with potassium permanganate, that is one gram per 100 litters of water and immerse the fish for between 10 to 20 minutes. After being cured, add to the community tank.



Bacteria:


A number of are known to inject fish causing conditions such as fin rot, tail rot, ulcer disease and Furunclosis and gill infections. Among these are Myxo bacteria (slime bacteria) and bacteria in the genera pseudomonas, Aeromonas and Hemophilus.
The features in which most bacterial infections have in common are ulcers (open sores) on the skins, fins and mouth, internal abscesses, and increased mucus on the skin and gills.
These skin ulcers are like the top of an ice berg in that they give only a plus to the marked infections inside the body of the fish.




·   

Dropsy

Chronic Dropsy; a swollen abdomen in the fish
Acute Dropsy; sudden swelling i.e fish`s scales to stand out.
One of the strangest of our fish disease is dropsy; it is caused by bacterial septicaemia spp. This bacteria is found in most waters. It is a disease that takes many forms and it is almost incurable. Normally really healthy fish are immune from the disease but they can contract the disease if a tank becomes infected.
Causative agent: Bacterial septicaemia spp.
Symptoms:  The fish become bloated with distended belly so much so that the fish looks as if it will burst (chronic dropsy), the scales stand proudly from the body, and skin lesions may appear, surround by a white ring, with a black outer ring.
Treatment: There is no real cure for this disease, it usually proves fatal within three weeks, it is therefore, advisable to destroy any infected fish immediately, it becomes evident that is suffering from dropsy. 
But sometimes the disease responds temporarily to the following treatment. Isolated, the fish is placed in a hospital tank which has been added one teaspoon of sea salt crystals to 5 litres of water. This is unlikely, to prolong the fish`s life for more than a month or two. 

 Fin Rot & Tail Rot


Fin rot and tail rot is an external bacterial infection because of poor water quality, overcrowding, and lower temperature. 
Causative agent: Pseudomonas Spp. , Aeromonas Spp.
Symptoms: Fins, tails become bloody, frayed and are eaten away leaving only the fin and tail rays.
Treatment: Bacterial fin and tail rot is very difficult to cure but it can be prolonged lasting a few days in Trypaflavin. To prepare the bath, dissolve one gram of Trypaflavin in a litre of water then use 10ml of this stock solution per litre of water. 
Phenoxephol has also been used to found to be an effective cure for fin rot and tail rot.
Next method: affected part of the fish may be carefully clipped off and the infected region be sobbed with 3 % hydrogen peroxide solution. 
Finally improve the water quality, remove the uneaten food from the tank, partial water. Lastly add cooking salt 10 to 20 grams to one litre of water concentration by this time, remove live plants and activated carbon from the tank.





Protozoan diseases.



Ichthyophthiriasis (white spot diseases)
All fresh water aquariums are infected by this well known disease at sometimes. Ichthyophthiriasis multifiliis is the name of the parasitical organism responsible for the common disease known among aquarists as white spot.
The parasites are one celled animals spherical in form, with cilia covering the surface. They borrow under the surface skin of the fish where they set up on irritation and spread, unchecked, all over the body and fins. The live off their host until they become fully developed and when they mature, the parasites fall off from the host and individually form a cyst which adheres to plants and rocks. The cyst capsule eventually bursts releasing up to a thousand tiny spores to re-infest the fish. 
Causative Agent: Ichthyophthiriasis multifiliis Spp.
Symptoms: The first indication of the fish is to get white spot. The fish darting about among the plants or flicking themselves against the rocks obviously trying to ease the irritation, and a tendency to hold the fins and tail flat. 
If white spot is not checked at this stage, the spots will become visible and multiply rapidly until the whole body and the fins are covered. The main cause of this disease is a chillness caused by the sudden temperature changes. Such changes need not be excessively low, a drop from 82 degree F (28 C) to 74 degree F (23 C) may well trigger on and break. Another source of infections is of course the introduction of newly acquired fish which already has the disease.
In sometimes diseases spread from the net and infected hand dipped into the healthy tank.
Treatment:
1. Raise the temperature of the water to 85F (29C) by heater as to increase the growth rate of the parasite. Within three days in the same temperature, the parasite will mature will fall off the fish into the tank. Remove the fish to another tank to prevent re-infection.
2. Add common table salt in a concentration of one table spoon full of one litre of water. Leave it for some days and then change the water neatly. 

3. Methylene blue has been used effectively in a concentration of 3 or 5 % solution per gallon of water. Repeat this treatment every five days for three weeks. Then change the water partially by siphoning to remove the tinted sediment.


Costaisis

Costaisis is caused by a small parasitic flagella that attacks the skin and gills of fish.
Causative Agent: Costia Spp. 
Symptoms: It is recognized in the later stages by a reddish streak something like a burn which spreads along the side of the fish from the tail towards the head.
In early stages, the fish behaves more or less, as if they have white spot by rubbing themselves against gravel and plants.
Treatment: Immerse the affected fish for 20mins in a bath made with 10 to 15gms of cooking salt to a litre of water. After changing of water, transfer the fish to the community tank.
Alternatively, use a formalin bath for about 45mins in a 2ml of a 40% solution to 10 litres of water. After changing water transfer the fish to community tank.
Additional protozoan parasites are Childon and Trichondina.


Oodinium (Velvet on rust) Diseases

There are various species of oodinium. It resembles as “ich” but both are common and are caused by protozoa parasites. The parasites attack the gills and skin but will also penetrate deeper into the body if the disease is not checked early.
Causative Agent: Oodinium Spp.
Symptoms: The disease can be recognised by a yellow brown film in a body of velvet like film. It may have appearance of talcum powder. The dust is pale yellowish colour.
Treatment: Transfer the fish to a hospital tank take a malachite green concentration of one drop of .75% solution per 5 litre of water. This drug is not safe for small fry and on overdose may be rapidly toxic. Then transfer to fresh water, afterward introduce to the community tank.Take the infected to the hospital tank then add 1% of Methylene blue that has been found effective against velvet disease. It can be used in tanks for conditioning plants and is completely harmless even to the smallest fish power filters that containing charcoal should be switched off while treatment is proceeding.


Worm Parasites



Flukes

Various worms cause troubles in the aquarium of which the most important are the flukes. Flukes (trematodes) infecting fishes usually those passed from fish to fish and not as to many requiring intermediate hosts such as snails or birds.


1. Gill fluke and skin fluke 
Infestation by monogenetic dremtodes.There are two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. Dactylogrus (Gill Fluke) and Gyrodactylus (Skin Fluke).
Causative Agent:  Skin Fluke – Gyrodactylus Spp.Gill Fluke – Dactylogyrus Spp.
Symptoms: The parasite causes the fish to swim in jerky manners and scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen and at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover. The skin and gill will develop increased amounts of mucus with a slimy appearance and may show small blood spots.
Treatment:1. Transfer the affected fish to hospital tank. Adding 2ml of 40% formaline into a litre of water and dip for 30-45 minutes. Then transfer the fish to fresh water and then again transfer to the community tank.2. Another type treatment is to transfer the fish to the hospital tank and add (10mg per litre) of potassium permanganate or treated whole with 2 mg per litres.3. Salt Bath: transfer the affected fish to the hospital tank which contains salt bath i.e 2 teaspoon of table salt to 2 litres of water for 20 minutes. Then transfer fish to the fresh water and then finally transfer to the community tank.To avoid disease caused by other flukes that have intermediate hosts, inspect fishes and never introduce snails into the aquarium that are not guaranteed for community tank.

Crustaceans Parasites   
There are two crustaceans of importance in the aquarium Argulus, the fish lice and Learnae, the anchor worm copepod.





Fish Louse – Argulus

Fish louse actually a crustacean like the sea side crab, this parasite swims from host to host, anchoring itself by means of strong suckers, and penetrating the skin with a poison spine. We can see it with the naked eye.
Causative Agent: Argulus.
Symptoms: The disease is recognized by reddish inflammation marks around the site of the skin which develops into greyish patches, usually round. Favourite areas of the attacks are around the belly, gills and throat. Infected fishes are restless and flick themselves against gravel or rocks, fins usually flattened.
Treatment:Transfer the affected fish to the hospital tank and prepare both with potassium permanganate one gram in 100 litres of water and immerse the fish for 10 to 30 minutes daily for 8 – 10 daily continuously. 
Another method, Argulus are quite large, 1/4th in size and can be picked off with forceps. Remove the fish from the tank (fish can survive for 1-2 minutes) hold in a wet cloth, and pull the adult louse only with forceps. If it is stubborn then apply a drop of salt solution to it with a small brush (don’t let it to touch the fish`s skin). Transfer the affected fish and its companions to hospital tank, treat the affected only but watch closely for adult lice hatched larvae as the remedy is always effective against these worms.
Salt batch is also a method to kill the fish louse. Remove the live plants from the tank. Then add common cooking salt to the community tank in the ratio of 1 kg cooking salt to 10 litres. Allow the fish to stand in this concentration for 2 minutes to the hospital tank and give full aeration. High salt concentration kill louse and their eggs also dies. This method is applicable only for aquarium tanks.

Lernae (Anchor Worm)

Anchor worm are ectoparastic and generally they do not attack tropical aquarium fishes except large cichlids.

Causative Agent:Lernea Spp.
Symptom: Anchor worm has anchor type body as a microscopic form and only weeks or months when they protrude from the skin. The anchor worms attack themselves and burrow into the skin, leaving only the egg sacs protruding. It is clearly visible on the fish and when it drops off, it leaves unpleasant ulcers.
Treatment: Remove the fish from the tank (fish can survive from 1-2 minutes). Hold it with wet cloth and pull the parasite off with forceps. The point of attachment on the fish can be treated with a drop of mercurochrome to help prevent secondary infection with bacteria or fungus.
Salt bath treatment is also a method to kill the anchor worm. Remove the live plants from the tank. Then add common cooking salt to the community tank to the ratio 1 kg cooking salt to 10 litres of water. Allow the fish to stand in this concentration for 2 minutes and then immediately transfer the fish to the hospital tank and give full aeration. Higher salt concentration which kills the anchor worm egg and minute organisms.